There’s an upper valley at Nozawa which has some of the loveliest slopes, a mixture of greens and reds, crisscrossing though the trees. The two chairlifts only operate at the weekends, which is a great shame. You can ski in the week, but your only options are limited. You can trek cross country to the bottom of Paradise, a route we took the first time we visited. It was a miserable half hour of hoofing when we’d rather be skiing. Alternatively you can join the mid station gondola, or ski on down the mountain and take your pick of ungroomed mogel infested blacks. I’ve skied both of them and neither are enjoyable, just a means of getting off the mountain. But back to the Yunomine Slopes, seen here on a busy Saturday morning! It’s a great place to practice carving and enjoy big sweeping turns from one side of the piste to the other.